The first time I visited the Florida Everglades, I was entranced. Layers of beauty, patterned chaos, teeming wildlife, and that unmistakable feel-good energy.

It is roughly 1.5 million acres of subtropical wetland often referred to as the “River of Grass”. A place with endless complexity that invites one to contemplate our natural world. While there are many locales around the world that exude such mystery, this is my place.

During this visit, I realized something new. The swamp beckons. The best way to experience this living breathing ecosystem is to accept the invitation and venture in. Go by foot, boat or better yet, both.

I often stay at Clyde Butcher Gallery Big Cypress, my Everglades home away from home. In addition to the gallery and two comfortable accommodations, the 14-acre property is alive with alligators, wading birds, orchids and good people.

Clyde Butcher is a legendary Everglades photographer whose large-format black-and-white images have inspired me on every visit. This time our stays overlapped, and I finally had the chance to tell him in person how much I admire his work and its significant impact on how I see this wonderful place.

Airboats are noisy and fast, yet they’re often the best option for the shallow cypress prairies and strands. I always go with Down South Airboat Tours, owned by a 5^th generation local. They go in just north of Route 41 on the edge of Big Cypress National Preserve. If you want to truly immerse yourself in the River of Grass, skip the typical tourist rides near Everglades City and choose them.

I was concerned on this visit, however. Even considering the severe drought, the water levels seemed lower than expected. Normally the levels rise with the summer rains and fall through the winter dry season, but last December they looked more like March or April. Changes in water levels ripple through the entire ecosystem, affecting both wildlife behavior and the people who depend on the swamp for their livelihood.

I asked many locals what was happening. Opinions varied, but a common theme emerged. All mentioned the drought but also raised questions about the South Florida Water Management District. The District controls the water flow from Lake Okeechobee to Big Cypress and Florida Bay and has control over how much water each region receives. This is a rabbit hole I intend to enter, one that starts with Big Sugar. Stay tuned.

Even though high water creates more dramatic photos, one can still capture the essence of the beautiful cypress prairies. There is always an invitation to carry on and explore further.

Or we can narrow our gaze as the tiniest of baby gators swims by.

Under the canopy of a cypress strand, the swamp’s quiet magic is always waiting.

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Over the years I’ve also explored Big Cypress by pole boat with Everglades Adventure Tours. It’s a completely different, whisper-quiet experience in the Turner River area, where alligators are almost always present.

Don’t let fear of alligators keep you from accepting the swamp’s invitation. Attacks are extremely rare, and nearly all are preventable by following basic safety guidelines.

These fascinating creatures are air-breathing reptiles that typically hold their breath for 15–30 minutes and up to several hours in cold water. As “cold blooded” ectotherms,
they control their body temperature externally, basking in sunlight to warm up or retreating to shade or water to cool down. If you see a gator with its mouth wide open, it doesn’t want to eat you, it’s simply cooling down.

There is one inhabitant of the swamp, however, that I would rather avoid - mosquitos. They can carry you away in the warm, wet months. Fortunately, they were tolerable on this visit, and one even posed for my first mosquito portrait.

The Loop Road used to be one of my favorite places, teeming with birds and alligators, especially around Sweetwater Strand. It is quieter now. The powers that be graded and widened the dirt road and made it easier to drive the 26-mile stretch at speed. Consequently, people do. Lots of them. Between that, the pythons and other environmental factors, much of the wildlife has moved on.

With limited photographic options, I decided to take a walk. My preference was to do the Gator Hook Trail which is mostly underwater, its limestone base riddled with holes, muck, roots, and cypress knees. Based on my first attempt on this trail when the water was high, the footing treacherous and our path literally and figuratively blocked by a very large snake, I thought Gator Hook on my own was a questionable idea. So I opted for a walk down the Loop Rd instead.

As I walked, this safe but boring choice started to gnaw at me. I wondered if I could turn low water lemons into lemonade. Would the underwater obstacles on Gator Hook be easier to see now? Would my new mud hikers ensure me and my heavy camera gear would stay vertical when slipping and sliding? Yes.

I quickly hiked back to the car, loaded up the backpack, laced up ankle high shoes with good traction, grabbed my sturdy varnished mop handle and headed down the trail. It was a magical few hours.

When the path dipped into a wooded area, a baby gator, one of my favorites, leaped from a log just ahead of me. I let the little one swim off before I continued down the trail.

I also spotted what looked like fossils embedded in the limestone.

As I walked back, I crossed paths with a young man. We looked at each other and smiled broadly. Two strangers, decades apart, both moved by how special this place felt that day.

The photo below captures that gorgeous day on the limestone path and tells the moral of the story - when presented with two paths, always take the more interesting one.

That afternoon, I ventured into another unknown.

Years ago I had seen a handwritten sign in a remote driveway in the middle of nowhere. I had questions, lots of them. The overgrown and cluttered driveway was definitely not an “invitation to enter”.

Last year I was surprised to see a man sitting in a wheelchair at the top of the drive. I had parked nearby to photograph a wood stork, but curiosity got the better of me. I walked back, keeping my distance, and we began to talk.

It bothered me afterwards that I never asked his name. So I went back to that driveway. From the gravel road, I yelled up asking if I could enter. He yelled back but I was not sure if it was welcoming or he was saying “don’t come down that driveway if you know what is good for you”. After a few more rounds of yelling, I finally understood: “I can’t walk, come down the driveway”. I texted my friends at Clyde Butcher to let them know I was headed in.

His name is Raymond. We talked for a long time and I listened as he shared stories of the Everglades from his childhood. Next time I pass by, will yell down the driveway again. If he is willing, I would love to tell his story.

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The next morning, I was greeted with dew-soaked spider webs – nature’s jewels. Of the literally hundreds of sparkling webs draped over shrubs and trees, only one spider was in residence.

Not far down the road I came upon an astonishing sight — hundreds, if not thousands, of tree swallows. I know it’s typical winter roosting behavior for them, but for me it was a first…one I will always remember.

That afternoon I headed out from Chokoloskee into Ten Thousand Islands with Captain Craig, an excellent guide. This is where the birds are. What a treat. On the way dolphins rode our wake and roseate spoonbills flew by.

Then our eyes feasted on the white pelicans. There is something deeply mesmerizing about these magnificent birds. With wing spans of 8-9 feet and weighing 20-30 lbs, they move with surprising grace. Their synchronized movements are especially captivating.

I wondered why they followed single file off the tiny point rather than fanning out from the sides. It seems this is a prelude to their coordinated foraging strategy. By entering the shallows single file, it is easier to form a single line and corral fish, scooping up a meal with their distinctive pouched beaks. Even their military like precision when walking has purpose - if they need to take flight, the formation prevents those giant wings from colliding.

I also love it when they stand at ease.

Near the pelicans we found an eagle pair. So majestic.

I then left Big Cypress and headed to Everglades National Park to meet Captain Jason Sullivan from Rising Tide Charters. We have enjoyed many successful trips together exploring Florida Bay, but this day was rough and windy. Sadly the flamingos were no where to be found, but the crocodiles sunning on the mud banks more than made up for it.

I showed the photos below to a friend who looked at me quizzically and asked why I would ever want to photograph such things. I smiled and said, “because crocodiles are incredible”. I admire their evolutionary consistency. Though they have evolved over millions of years, they still look like living dinosaurs. When I’m in their presence, I feel as though I’ve stepped back in time.

American crocodiles are shy and relatively docile compared to the aggressive and dangerous Nile or Saltwater crocodiles who view us as tasty treats. Even so, as with alligators, it is very important to follow basic safety measures. Don’t feed them, corner them or get too close.

I wish I could speak crocodile. Among many other things I would ask how they feel about their teeth sticking up through their snout.

We also saw a group of roseate spoonbills. One in particular caught my attention. A brent goose was pestering the larger spoonbill with great success. I could not help but wonder why the spoonbill didn’t just ignore the smaller bird.

On land I spent much time in Pahayokee, one of my favorite spots in the park. Things seemed unusually quiet, but luckily the photography gods were smiling. Out of the corner of my eye, I caught sight of a group of wood storks in beautiful afternoon light. The trees on the side of the road made it impossible to capture the full scene but on tip toes I found a singular opening.

Then I had an idea. If I circle around through the water, perhaps I could capture the whole scene. I pulled on rubber boots and stepped beneath the cypress canopy. I stopped in my tracks. It was stunning. I had driven by this exact spot at least 100 times and had no idea this hidden gem was here.

After letting the wood storks get used to my presence, I began slowly moving in their direction but unfortunately a car stopped, then another. Between my walking and their talking, the wood storks had enough.

No worries. I turned my attention to this new “discovery” instead. I slipped into my waders, wedged myself between a cypress tree and my tripod, and waited. When the light finally came right, the invitation to enter was revealed in all its quiet glory.

Thanks for joining me on this little Everglades adventure. Until next time…

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From Cape Town we headed north to the greater Kruger area. We were in search of not only the Big 5 (elephant, buffalo, rhino, lion and leopard) but all the myriad creatures that make Africa interesting. Bring us your hyenas, ostriches, pangolins, giraffes, wild dogs and zebras. Great food and company are also welcome on this adventure.

Kruger National Park is the oldest public reserve in South Africa. It is 7523 square miles while Greater Kruger is composed of adjacent private game reserves which total 695 square miles. For comparison, the Kruger and private concessions are a bit bigger than Massachusetts. The fences around Kruger and most of the private concessions were removed in 1993 allowing the game to roam freely.

We chose private reserves over the national park due to their additional flexibility, low density of humans and wider choice of accommodation. For example, in the private reserves guides can go offroad, conduct night game drives and offer such perks as private game vehicles. Most of the private reserves also have reciprocal traversing agreements that allow the visitor to experience different habitats.

Our first stop was Tanda Tula in Timbavati Nature Reserve. On the drive from Hoedspruit airport, we saw a group of giraffes, a harbinger of things to come.

Upon arrival, we wondered if Tanda Tula had been built on some sort of happiness vortex. While we found most South Africans had a ready smile, everyone we met at Tanda Tula exuded happiness. It had a subtle yet notable impact on the guests and the vibe.

The game lodges we visited operated similarly, the first game drive leaves at sunrise with a coffee stop, back for breakfast and hang out time. Afternoon game drives depart around 3:30 and include the iconic sundowner cocktail before returning to camp for a lovely dinner.

At Tanda Tula, we shared a game vehicle with another couple plus our excellent guide and tracker team, Victor and Given. It was a great group with much laughter in between game sightings. The truck was a perfect set up for me since I had my own row and was able to move freely from one side to the other plus squish down between the seats to gain a better photographic perspective. Ideally we would exit the vehicle to be at or below the animal’s eye level, but that is not permitted for the obvious reasons.

Our first game drive was epic. We saw two young males napping, something lions do a lot. It is estimated they can sleep up to 18 hours a day. These two were likely brothers who hang together, called a “coalition”. I am not sure if they had formed their own coalition or already members of another. “Lion coalitions are not just about brute strength; they are about brotherhood, cooperation and survival. These groups, ranging from two to six or more males operate as a unit, leveraging their collective power to secure territories and protect their prides. Within the coalition, a clear hierarchy often emerges, but it is the bond and teamwork that truly define their success. Territorial control is the lifeblood of a lion coalition.” We humans certainly understand the concept of coalitions and territorial control.

We then saw a pride of 18 lions including cubs, at a giraffe kill. In the shot below, when the male walked in, we wondered if he were part of the coalition or an interloper. If the latter, fireworks were expected. We received our answer when he settled in for a meal. While the photo may be disturbing, when we chow down on a steak, we are essentially doing the same thing, just in a more “civilized” manner without a skinned cow’s head on the table.

Cubs were roaming around and one of the more touching moments was this cub cuddling with dad. Note males who take control of a territory tend to kill the cubs of their adversaries. We don’t have to look too far back in history to find humans who participated in similar behavior.

We were delighted to see a hyena as this was Earl’s bucket list animal. Our guides explained how “The Lion King” influenced people to believe hyenas were the lowest of the low. They do not deserve this reputation. This articleexplains: “Hyenas are witty, courageous, and smart animals, and have no apologies to make. They are also incredibly caring and nurture their cubs better than many other animals.” Interestingly hyenas are more closely related to cats than dogs.

On the way back to camp, we experienced a very rare pangolin sighting. Unfortunately, this one hid his or her head in a bush. Pangolins are the only known mammal to have hard scales over their entire body. Sadly they are the most illegally traded wild animal in the world as some Asian countries believe the keratin scales are a cure all and the meat is a delicacy. I wish the pythons in south Florida had this reputation instead.

Wart hogs are so ugly they are cute. While the sun was not our friend with this sighting, I still love the look of the young one. Warthogs are wild pigs that are less aggressive than other South African animals except when startled or cornered. They are mostly herbivores eating grasses, roots, and bulbs, often kneeling on their front legs to dig with their snouts and looking adorable for photographers.

We saw these zebras walking from our room to the common area. I did not have my camera but the iphone works in a pinch.

Later we saw our first cheetah on the trip and luckily not our last. They are compelling creatures, also highly endangered due to poaching, habitat loss and lack of prey. They do not adapt or reproduce well in captivity so efforts to increase their population in that manner have been largely unsuccessful. Females tend to be loaners while the males can form coalitions. This lovely female woke from her nap long enough to pose for us.

Nearby a lion pair sauntered down a hill towards our truck. Their stride was magnificent to watch. While I do not feel the photo captures the pair’s absolute confidence in their dominance, it is a reminder of how wonderful this was.

They walked to the truck as we all sat quietly. Before I put my camera down to observe, the male hesitated for a moment with eyes locked on and suggested a head shot would look good on our wall.

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We assumed these two were focused on the next generation. “South African lions mate with remarkable intensity during a female’s 4–7 day estrus cycle, copulating 50–100+ times (every 15–30 minutes, day and night) over 3–5 days, with each brief encounter lasting 10–30 seconds.” Wow.

We saw plenty of elephants. One herd was in a dry riverbed and used their trunks to dig through the sand to the water below.

Their keen sense of smell helps them choose the best places to dig. They drink an astounding 26-53 gallons of water per day depending on temperature, activity and availability. They suck water into their trunks and squirt it into their mouths or as the younger elephants do, play around and squirt it everywhere. Note the goo on the inside of the elephant’s eye. This is natural lubrication to protect their eyes from dust and debris.

Elephants are also power eaters which results in wholesale destruction of the foliage. They eat small trees in their entirety and fatally damage larger ones. “South African elephants (primarily Loxodonta africana, the African bush elephant) are generalist herbivores with a highly varied diet that changes based on season, region, and habitat. They consume up to 600lbs of plant material per day (wet weight), spending 12–18 hours feeding.”

We watched the elephant below knock down the tree to the left and then walk away. Did it taste bad or were you just having some fun?

As the protected elephant population continues to grow, a new debate has emerged, should the number of elephants be reduced? Wholesale destruction of trees impacts the habitat of other species and their survival. I asked what occurred in past centuries since elephants have been denuding the landscape forever. Elephants remained in an area for only a few years before migrating to regions far north, giving the land time to recover. Now that the migration routes are blocked, humans are in the unenviable position of deciding who lives and who dies.

Seeing an ostrich in the wild was on my bucket list. They are big and fast. In fact they are the largest living bird. Males can be 9’ tall, 220-330 lbs and run up to 45 mph while females are a bit smaller. They can hang in large groups as well. Hopefully one day we see that incredible spectacle.

We also came upon a female leopard sleeping in a tree. Yet another stunning creature. “Unlike lions (social, ground-dwelling), cheetahs (specialized for speed, not climbing), caracals, servals, or African wildcats (smaller, less arboreal), leopards are uniquely arboreal. They use trees for resting, eating, and hiding prey, a behavior not consistently seen in other South African felids.” My favorite detail in this shot is her grip on the branch.

We cannot forget the wildebeests. The “wild beasts” are prey not predators so humans have little to fear unless they do something foolish like approach a calve or corner an injured male. We often saw them hanging with the zebras and always in groups.

On our last morning in Tanda Tula we visited a large lion pride in a sandy patch. This was a wonderful spot to observe their behavior. As always the cubs stole our hearts. It was also clear the older lions had a watchful eye on us.

While the game drives were excellent we also enjoyed the lodge. Our room looked out over a dry river bed with a wonderful couch to soak up the environment. While a leopard did not come to visit, the elephants did cross the riverbed.

Meals were in a communal area where it was easy to push tables together if desired. The impalas roamed freely during lunch and an injured hippo took up residence in the pond. When he came up for a visit, everyone backed away and let the locals move him out. Hippos are dangerous.

While it was quite chilly first thing in the morning, by 9:30 we were happily eating a fabulous breakfast outside. There was also a delicious barbecue one night and a surprise special sundowner on another.

After breakfast it was time to head out. We took Federal Air to Sabi Sands, our next destination…

Dear Substack Readers, the next several blogs will be a departure from the normal political discussions and focus on 2025’s photographic highlights. Photos with linked titles can also be found on my website. Should you have an interest in other photos, please feel free to reach out.

The above is Part 2 of a 4 part series. Below are links to the other articles:

South Africa: Cape Town, Part 1

South Africa: Tanda Tula and Timbavati, Part 2 (this post)

South Africa: Savanna and Sabi Sands, Part 3

South Africa: Tswalu, Part 4

Thanks,

Sue Seboda

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Decades ago I went to Kenya on a safari. Rather than the lux safaris of today, it was an overland camping trip. Showers were in a tent with a hanging bucket and we enjoyed incredible meals cooked on an open fire. Initially we traveled by safari truck and then traded trucks for horses. Our camp was broken down each morning after we departed and reset at our destination. We galloped with animals, outran storms, engaged with the Masai and swam in water holes. The Masai guarded our campsite at night to protect the horses from the lions. It was phenomenal. One thing we all learned, Africa holds a special allure. Is it “miles and miles of bloody Africa”, hanging with wildlife or something more elemental that speaks to our souls. It doesn’t matter why, it just is. I had to go back.

Sadly the world has become too careful for safaris like the above but there is something to be said for a comfortable bed, indoor plumbing and hot water bottles on a chilly morning. Plus my 20+ year quest to convince Earl to go to Africa would have failed immediately if I even mentioned the word “camping”.

With a commitment that this trip would include the finer things in life such as air conditioning, we started our research. We highly recommend Rob Slater of Safari Consultants who crafted a wonderful trip that satisfied both of our requirements. We settled on South Africa because there is a nonstop flight from Washington DC to Cape Town and the animal viewing in the north was best when we wanted to travel, our summer and their winter.

What follows is a four part photographic story of our journey beginning in Cape Town where we spent three days before and after our time at the safari camps.

Cape Town is a good city and has the potential to be great if they can solve their cultural and crime problems. Apartheidwas truly abhorrent. It began to crumble in 1990 and was officially dead in 1994. Unfortunately however, South African leadership has not found a path forward culturally or economically that enables the majority of the citizens to lift themselves out of poverty. Crime is a serious problem. It was safe to walk around the V&A Waterfront after dark due to notable police presence but nowhere else.

On the other hand, Cape Town is beautiful, people are unusually friendly, there is plenty to see and do and it’s relatively inexpensive for a sizable city. Plus the excellent restaurants are a foodie’s delight.

Rob recommended the Fairmount Cape Grace in the V&A Waterfront and we loved everything about it. Another hotel that gets attention is the Silo Hotel. The photo below is from the Silo’s rooftop deck. The Fairmont is the brick building bottom right.

Table Mountain dominates the Cape Town skyline and often has a cloud cap in winter as shown in the photo above, upper left. For a great view, the more adventurous can hike up Table Mountain or, like us, take the cable car and hike the trails at the top. We were walking in a cloud for much of our visit but that too was interesting.

One of the coolest things about Cape Town is a working dry dock in the middle of the tourist area. In the photo below, they have floated the boat and are in the process of opening the gate. The Fairmont Cape Grace is the structure far left.

One of the more bizarre happenings was a standing protest every Saturday exactly at 2:00pm with pro and anti-Isreal protestors chanting at each other. What do the nearby store employees say: “Please make it stop”.

During our wanders in the V&A Waterfront, we went to the excellent Oranjezicht Market wishing we had gone before lunch.

We thoroughly enjoyed Kirstenbosch Gardens. Miles of good walking trails in a beautiful environment.

How nice that this collared sunbird landed in the bird of paradise just as I was taking a shot.

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We visited Bo-Kapp formerly known as the Malay Quarter. It is at the foot of Signal Hill and is famous for its brightly colored houses and the oldest mosque in South Africa. “The houses in the area are a mix of Cape Dutch and Georgian architecture and the bright colours, it is said, are attributed to the fact that while on lease, all the houses had to be white. When this rule was eventually lifted, and the slaves were allowed to buy the properties, all the houses were painted bright colours by their owners as an expression of their freedom.”

Perhaps it started this way, but my instincts suggest the bright colors were embraced and expanded in recent years to attract tourists. There are a few interesting shops and a photography studio worth a visit. A sketchy guy followed us into a couple places and then started closing in on me, or more likely, my camera. Earl, whose head was on a constant swivel, issued a loud warning as he and the potential thief walked toward me. Not surprisingly, the guy skittered away.

A trip around the Cape is worth it and do stop at Boulders to see the African penguins. Go early to beat the crowds. Note the buses can only travel the Cape road in one direction. Our excellent guide Warren wisely suggested we drive the Cape in the opposite direction to arrive at the penguins before the hordes. I am glad we did because the platform was elevated (not great for photographing wildlife) and if I were not already lying down shooting before the busses arrived, it would have been impossible to do so.

African penguins are between 24”- 28” tall and weigh 4.9 – 7.7 lbs. These social birds are also known as Jackass penguins due to their donkey like call. It’s very funny to hear this little creature make that loud braying sound. They spend most of the time in the water either cooling off or eating. They can swim up to 12.5 mph when chasing prey, mostly “anchovies, horse mackerel, round herrings, and pilchards. They may also eat crustaceans and squid.”

When on land, it appears that preening is penguins’ favorite activity: “African penguins regularly preen themselves, rearranging their feathers to clean off dirt, ticks and parasites. Preening also distributes natural oils to ensure insulation and a water-proof quality.” It was entertaining to watch parents diligently chase after their babies to preen them. Mom and dad finally corralled this young one who looks super happy about it.

The Cape itself is full of nice walks and beautiful vistas with ostriches wandering about. I have a thing for ostriches and we both recoiled in horror when we first saw ostrich meat on the menu. We accidentally ate some one day and discovered it a is delicious red meat with a very good nutritional profile. One learns something new every day in Africa.

Our opinion of Capetown can best be answered by whether we would return. Absolutely yes as a starting and ending point for another African adventure.

Now onto the main event, the safari…

Dear Substack Readers, the next several blogs will be a departure from the normal political discussions and focus on 2025’s photographic highlights. Photos with linked titles can also be found on my website. Should you have an interest in other photos, please feel free to reach out.

The above is Part 1 of a 4 part series. Below are links to the other articles:

South Africa: Cape Town, Part 1 (this post)

South Africa: Tanda Tula and Timbavati, Part 2

South Africa: Savanna and Sabi Sands, Part 3

South Africa: Tswalu, Part 4

Thanks,

Sue Seboda

When there was a cancellation for the August 2024 trip, I took the spot immediately. Hanging with bears is like any great experience, once is never enough.

While weather in coastal Alaska is often cloudy and rainy, it poured heavily for days just before we flew from Anchorage to Silver Salmon Creek Lodge. When our plane was swapped out for a float plane, we suspected we would be in for some challenges.

Like last year the flight was great. I was captivated by the abstract nature and remoteness of the coastal areas. The scene below had me wondering. How do you get to these houses and what do you do when you are there? Equally important how can I get there?

We landed in a beautiful lake. Lily pads in Alaska? For real? Ducks that walk on water?

Our arrival at Silver Salmon Creek Lodge felt like coming home. It was great to see everyone such as Dave our excellent guide, Joanne and David the owners and all the staff who make this a special place. We asked about our favorite local bears, in particular Crimp and Old Sow. Unfortunately, after hibernation, Crimp returned without her cubs. Equally disturbing, Old Sow and her cubs had not been seen at all. This news still makes me sad, but it is life. Not all cubs make it to adulthood and old bears die just like old humans. Cheers Old Sow.

Our first excursion was eye opening. The massive storm blew out the rivers, created 12’ cliffs and deposited an incredible amount of large debris in areas of the beach. The high water in the rivers penned us into a far smaller roaming area plus the weather patterns remained unsettled our first couple days. As the photography gods have taught us, however, bad weather and bizarre happenings can lead to unique opportunities.

One such opportunity came with morning fog. We found Crimp in cow bear mode but she paused eating long enough to meander beautifully into this scene. Thank you for that Crimp. My favorite subtle detail is the oval frame of green grass.

We headed to the beach and this lovely emerged from the fog. Zoom in on the bear’s eyes and check out the single hair in front of each. I wonder if those are just errant eyebrow hairs or if there is a purpose. If find an answer will pass it on.

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Later in the afternoon, we saw Crimp out on a sandbar.

Unfortunately we had to walk through very strong current to get there. As I gripped a heavy lens and camera, hoping the current would not win the contest with my legs, I gladly accepted a steadying hand. We assumed our typical shooting position – flat out in the sand and water. This softens the foreground, providing more focus on the bear. Plus the stature this perspective delivers is ideal when shooting bears. Beware, however, even chest waders can turn into cold water buckets if the water gets too high.

We were delighted when Crimp turned our way. I think she loves the camera.

While we were shooting the above stills, Dave was shooting video. I remember both him and Jared saying “keep shooting” when Crimp was close enough to almost fill the frame at 200mm. For those who think we have lost our minds, consider this article which explains why we can be reasonably close to the bears in this area.

Let’s talk about that collar. Recently the Park Service collared Crimp ostensibly to study her movements and hibernation habits. She has been a well-known fixture in this area for years. Is it worth the potential trauma to her for humans to know where and when she eats and sleeps? How does this help bears? While I am willing to be convinced, it is hard to believe this is a good idea.

After the storm the beach was a minefield of debris. That afternoon we came upon a bear wandering among the dead trees. She sat down, rolled a bit and then stood up. She was facing away from us but then she looked back with a snap moment of acknowledgement.

I was so excited I stopped paying attention to the technical aspects and cut off a sliver of her right foot. You might ask why I would descend into youtube and photoshop hell to figure out how to paste the bottom of the previous photo on to this one. Aside from taking the opportunity to learn something new, I wanted to show the standing bear in the post storm debris. The main reason, though, is to remember how I felt when she looked over her shoulder.

This recalls a subject we discussed in depth. Why do we do this? Having given this question a great deal of thought, the answer is simple. It makes me happy. Sometimes intensely so. As I tumbled down this rabbit hole, what kept coming to me is the joy of spending time in nature and meeting new friends. It is connection to the natural world. It is the childlike discovery of wondrous things and playing in the mud. It can be as simple as a flick of a bear’s head, a baby alligator who magically appears at my feet or stunning white pelicans marching in unison. One of my goals is to communicate these feelings in my work. Yes, that is a lofty goal, but why not reach for the stars.

Later that afternoon we spied a bear headed to the sedge. Jared ran ahead, surveyed the area and had us all gather in a marshy area. Sure enough she wandered straight for us. Why did Jared pick here? Due to the moisture, it was the yummiest grass in the field and it was a good bet she would go there first. This was an ideal demonstration that understanding animal behavior increases our opportunities. I particularly like the water droplets falling from the bite of sedge in her mouth.

The next day we came across an adorable scene. This bear was laying in the grass with its cream tipped ears backlit by the sun. Since Old Sow had similar colorings, it led folks to wonder if this was one of her children.

Sometimes wildlife habitat alone can ignite our imagination. This is a bear trail, worn three inches deep by generations of bear traffic.

The next several photos help illustrate another discussion we had about wildlife photography. Predator Porn. We humans are drawn to scary threatening photos of predators. It must resonate somewhere in our psyche right up there with disaster movies and wrecks. Photographers have filled this demand consciously or subconsciously.

What I had not considered is how this obsession with predator porn has warped people’s impression of these animals. Yes bears are predators but they also are caring moms, foragers, fishing bears, clamming bears and are steeped in their own traditions. The predator porn genre of click driven media might lead folks to believe sharing an environment with bears and other predators will only lead to mayhem.

As I contemplated this further, the Ten Commandments came to mind. They have been a guide from time immemorial to create positive interactions between humans. Similarly, there are rules of engagement between humans and bears. These rules are different for coastal brown bears, interior grizzlies and black bears. Just like the Ten Commandments, when we follow them, good things can happen. When they are broken there is a high probability of a bad outcome for the animal, human or both.

For example, this woman broke a serious rule. Never knowingly fish next to a bear and hope you never do it by accident. If she caught a fish, the bear would be all over that fish and possibly her. If she were injured, would the bear be put down because it was deemed dangerous? Has the preponderance of predator porn impacted the answer to that question?

Most folks responded to the following photo with trepidation. I see magnificence.

Later we photographed this sow. Take note of your initial reaction.

I want to hug her. As that breaks the rules of engagement, I would never do that, but the point is bears can be as tender as they are intense. The photos above of Crimp in the fog and Old Sow with one of her cubs have a similar quality.

Jared and Annalise posed the question – should wildlife photographers assume the responsibility to tell the whole story of bears and other creatures that inhabit our shared home? My answer is yes. It’s better for the animals and great for us.

The next day brought rare calm seas and blue skies. As such it was a perfect opportunity to visit Duck Island where puffins summer. I enjoyed the steps necessary to get to the boat. Drag a canoe to the water, paddle to the boat, gather us and then tow the canoe to the mooring ball.

Puffins are funny looking. Back in the day, “early sailors referred to them as “sea parrots” due to their triangularly shaped beak, stocky body, short wings, and reddish-orange feet.” They are mesmerizing to watch and hard to photograph. They’re fast.

I was fixated on this puffin as it repeatedly cocked its head in a curious way.

Then the puffin flew straight towards me. Jared thought it was going to land on my head. While I was not set up for a 50 mph bird in flight, I luckily caught this shot before he got up to speed. I have had mixed reactions to this photo. What is yours?

I appreciate the complimentary pops of color in this portrait.

Around the corner, puffins were flying in and out of a shadowed area creating the opportunity for unique in camera low key shots.

The first photo below is just puffin funny to me and will no doubt be the cover shot of a future blog while the second is an attempt at puffin pretty. I was not able to get any shots with their mouths stuffed with fish. Next time!

Our final morning was spent with clamming bears. Bears love clams and due to their amazing sense of smell, they know where to dig. Lucky for us the photography gods dished up a low tide at sunrise. My favorite.

This could be called “gym photography”. My elbows kept sinking into the sand and it was a full-on lats workout to stay propped up.

While I considered cropping the first photo below so folks could see the mud flying more clearly, I liked the light frame too much to remove. I cropped the next photo to tell that story. Their long claws are designed for this work and the hump on their back is musculature to help them dig.

The gulls are always in attendance in case the bears miss something.

I can feel the bear smelling for clams in this photo.

She knew this boat had been out fishing.

This bear adopted a short ambling stride for a bit. Her head was turned away from us but she finally looked forward.

When the sun became too hot we turned around. Here Crimp shows us how it is done among soft blue layering. I experimented with perspective for this shot. This was taken from my knees which provided the clear reflection. At sand level the reflection was too distorted by the divots.

Sometimes serious digging is required. Note the mud pile behind her leg.

After hanging with clamming bears, sadly it was time to load up and head to the plane.

Thank you so much Annalise and Jared for a fabulous trip and learning experience. You turned lemons into lemonade considering the weather challenges. When we were grounded, we explored our craft in other important ways. Those discussions are still rolling around my brain and will make us better photographers.

Thanks to Dave for ensuring we had the best opportunities available. I think Dave might actually be part bear. He seems to smell them as well as they smell us.

And finally thank you to everyone at Silver Salmon Creek Lodge, a down home, comfortable place with excellent food and camaraderie. Until we meet again!

Dear Readers, please note many of the photos are available on my photography website. Also for additional articles on photography and a wide range of subjects, feel free to visit my original blog website. Hope you enjoyed the above!

Thanks,

Sue Seboda

I got to work. Doing so, I spotted an interesting, snail type creature hanging from a branch and paused hacking branches to snap a photo. Subsequent research revealed that these tree snails are a mollusc of the genus liguss, or Ligs for short. Curiously, Ligs were quite the coveted item back in the day and their interesting patterns attracted the attention of serious collectors.

Dr. G. Thomas Watters is Curator of Molluscs at the Museum of Biological Diversity at Ohio State University and wrote a wonderful article on the subject. “In Florida the Ligs occurred in three general areas: the Keys, the Gold Coast, and the Everglades. Collecting them, particularly in the Everglades, could be an adventure. And those adventurers called themselves Liggers. On foot, on horseback, in Model As, some of America’s most famous malacologists ventured into the chigger-infested, cotton-mouth crawling, gater guarded, sawgrass cutting landscape in the early 1900s. Long before GPS or even decent maps, these intrepid collectors produced hand-drawn maps and named and numbered hundreds of hammocks and cataloged the Ligs they found there. Archie Jones, perhaps the most experienced of the Liggers, once remarked that a Ligger needed two qualities: high stamina and low IQ.”

Great. I am all in.

A few weeks ago, I was back in Everglades National Park in a special spot where spectacular sunsets are the norm. As luck would have it, there was another photographer who asked if I had seen the tree snails. Excitedly I asked if he was talking about Ligs? Yes indeed and he showed me where this batch were hiding. Imagine that, another modern day Ligger.

Each Lig had a unique pattern and, as snails go, were quite beautiful. I particularly liked the subtle gray marbling on the white Lig. For those curious about the snail itself, I focused directly on the snail’s body in the shell with horizontal stripes.

The moral of the story – nature is endlessly fascinating, clear your own path forward and enjoy the discoveries that await.

The workshop included a day of instruction in Anchorage and then five nights at Silver Salmon Creek Lodge on Cook Inlet in Lake Clark National Park. The lodge is an ideal base, downhome comfortable with great people and food. Bears are everywhere.

Thanks for reading My Two Cents by Sue Seboda! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.

During our classroom day, Jared and Annalise reviewed the shooting techniques that would yield the best results in the field. The short summary – keep it simple and keep it low. In most cases we would be wide open, a shutter speed of 1000 or 2000 depending on the activity of the bears and adjust ISO accordingly for a histogram to the right without blow outs. Shoot close to the ground to render otherwise boring foregrounds beautiful and depict the bears with the stature they deserve.

Tuned up for our adventure, the next morning we headed to a most enjoyable airport. They first piled our luggage and then all of us on a scale, loaded the baggage into a de Havilland Beaver and we were off for Lake Clark. Getting high always provides an interesting perspective and this area in Alaska is no exception. Looking out the window was a study in abstract art.

Our plane landed on the beach. This alone propelled Lake Clark to the top of my “Places I Want to Be” list. We tumbled out into cool, misty weather. Moments later we were like kids running up the hill looking for bears. “Look, look!!” Off in the distance was a bear. Little did we know that was just a tiny promise of things to come.

After getting settled, we headed to the sedge marshes. We learned several things. Bears eat a lot and they are also cows. This was the first inkling that bears are the mystical shape shifters of the animal world. Jared and Annalise called this manifestation “Cow Bears”.

We were also delighted to see cubs. Krimp and Old Sow, two mama bears who live near the lodge, both had “cubs of the year”, meaning they were born in January during hibernation, nursed through the winter and came out of hibernation with mom in May. While all of us are intrigued by bears, the cubs stole our hearts. They played with abandon, nursed, slept, climbed everything possible and spread happiness as babies do.

We also learned that the adult bears in the vicinity of Silver Salmon Creek Lodge were females (sows). Turns out the male bears (boars) don’t like humans and avoid the place. The sows don’t like the boars killing their cubs so they hang around the humans. Smart.

For the uninitiated like me there was another moment of realization. That hump on the bear’s back is disturbingly familiar. Why are we so close to what appear to be grizzly bears? Turns out coastal brown bears are the same species as grizzlies but just as environment impacts human behavior, the same is true for bears. There is enough food on the coast for all the creatures who live there and as a result the bears are more tolerant. Plentiful sedges, grasses, berries, clams and salmon make our new friends fat and happy.

Even though Silver Salmon Creek is remote, the sows see humans daily. Since the people at the lodge pose no threat and have predictable patterns, the sows tolerate them unless they do something stupid, come too close or interfere with their cubs. This makes for excellent and safe bear photography as long as no one thinks they are in a petting zoo. Regardless the guides always carry bear spray.

Perhaps lean and mean describes inland brown bears aka grizzlies. A National Park Service article on bears in Lake Clark National Park explains: “Because competition for resources is higher inland, brown bears here revert to their solitary nature and do not gather in high numbers. They will interact with fewer individuals in their lifetime than a coastal bear and are less tolerant of the presence of those they do encounter. They are also more likely to react to people from a greater distance so please use extreme caution when exploring the interior of the park.”

When we were not in the sedge marshes, we were on the beach. We hoped for bears fishing for salmon. Instead we were treated with endless opportunities to photograph cubs playing. The touching interactions with mom remind us we are all undeniably linked.

One of my favorite moments was when the cubs were trying to wake up Old Sow. When I was a young kid, Mildred used to babysit. She would take an afternoon nap and often I would park myself next to the couch and ask. “Are you sleeping? No, I am just resting my eyes. Are you sleeping now?” On it went until Mildred relented or actually slept. This scene brought that good memory back with a chuckle. Note the milk on the cub’s snout after they got their way and woke mom up.

One morning the photography gods were truly with us. The clouds broke for sunrise and the tide was very low. This is when the bears go clamming. Yogi Bear also made an appearance.

This effect was achieved by shooting at ground level. Pools of water in the sand reflected the light from the rising sun. It was spectacular.

Note the shoulder hump is actually “a mass of muscle, which enables brown bears to dig and use their paws as a striking force”. That comes in handy when digging for clams.

A bit later we moved further out where Krimp was having her way with some fish carcasses. We were kneeling waste deep with cameras just above the water. The sun was behind us and the light was amazing. Please meet Human Bear.

After tolerating us for awhile Krimp walked our way. We stood up and walked in the other direction. Being last, I turned around and noticed she was following us, closely. “You do know Krimp is right behind me? Yes just keep walking”. She moved us out of the way, returned to her previous position and resumed her morning snack.

After this I mentioned to Jared that I wished there was a photo of us and our tripods in the water. He laughed and said there were probably tons of those photos. We were the only group of photographers with full chest waders and boots. This allowed us to comfortably lay in the sand and water to get the sparkle shots. We could also sit in water and stay warm and dry when Krimp turned into a human. Everybody else was stuck ¼ mile away and will spend much time in photoshop cropping and removing us from their photos. Thank you, Jared and Annalise, for recommending my new favorite article of clothing.

We went salmon fishing, another first. I joked beginner’s luck would win the day. It did. After my tussle with the fragrant salmon, we were shooting a collared bear who walked quite close. At that moment Jared reminded us of bears’ incredible sense of smell and dubbed me “Salmon Hands Sue”. Later we saw this bear again. When she turned and looked at me, she asked “Is that you Salmon Hands”?

We rarely saw the sun on this trip but another morning it did peek out at sunrise for some beautiful light. What is going through your mind Old Sow?

Nothing is quite like bears on the move. Aside from the wild motion of their feet, they exude power. This is Bear Bear. Compare Krimp’s photos below to Cow Bear above. Yup, they shift. I included several photos below to show her foot and leg motion.

Let’s not forget the puffins who live on a nearby island. They are curious looking birds that fly about a million miles per hour. Perhaps that is an exaggeration, only 50 mph. Let’s just say I had an extremely low hit rate. Shooting the sea otter who floated by was much easier.

This was a first-rate photography workshop where I learned much in a spectacular setting. Jared and Annalise are excellent and patient teachers. Unlike every other photography group they also ensured we were properly outfitted to get the best possible shots. Dave, our guide from the lodge, put us in the right place at the right time. While I won the “hot mess” award on numerous occasions, I was still able to capture some wall worthy photos. We all did. I will go again. I love hanging with bears.

DETAILS

• Dear Substack readers, please feel free to visit my website for additional articles on photography and a wide range of subjects.

• .Silver Salmon Creek Lodge is fantastic. It is not surprising they are booked 6 years out. Don’t expect fancy but do expect solidly great with exceptional owners, guides, cooks and staff.

• Feel free to visit Jared’s website PhotoWild and PhotoWild facebook page. PhotoWild magazine is one of my favorite learning tools as are his and Annalises’s podcasts. This is my second workshop with Jared and Annalise and while photography is normally a solo endeavor for me, I will likely do them all. I learn heaps about photography, wildlife and nature while having a blast.

Smith Island is a wonderful bit of quirk on the Chesapeake Bay. The last inhabited island chain in Maryland is home to delightful personalities, abundant wildlife and Smith Island Cake. A place where stark beauty competes with decay, isolation is tempered by community and a long history does not guarantee a successful future. A visit is a special gift.

We learned just how special when we joined renowned local photographer Jay Fleming for his Smith Island photography workshop in June 2022 and again in June 2023. As his home away from home, Jay ensures folks experience the unique culture while offering delicious Smith Island food and ample photographic opportunities.

Smith Island life revolves around the Chesapeake Bay as did ours. While a 3:45 AM alarm is harsh, lack of sleep is a small price to pay to photograph the crabbers at dawn. Jay captained his boat for optimal compositions as we clicked away, hoping for a wall worthy photo that captures the essence of waterman culture. A special treat is the humorous banter between the crabbers over the radio. The Smith Island dialect reminds us that while only 12 miles from the mainland by boat, this three-by-five mile island chain is a world away. In 2022 we had a beautiful sunrise. In 2023 we experienced storm skies and a short window of incredible light.

In search of baby birds, we visited several rookeries located on nearby uninhabited islands. We found pelican, gull and cormorant babies but must admit we were equally intrigued by the curious and, at times, disturbing behavior at the rookeries.

I wish I could talk “bird” to ask a few questions. To the gulls – why do you relentlessly dive bomb the pelicans? The loud definitive snap of a pelican beak leaves no doubt that it could break your leg. Why are your nests at the water’s edge where a high tide can sweep away the eggs? Does it hurt when you swallow a whole baby cormorant and then regurgitate it for your baby? I guess it is the natural way of things for you to steal cormorant eggs, but is there really nothing else to eat?

To the pelicans – why did you yell at the gull baby and then grab its beak? A lecture perhaps? Don’t grow up annoying like your parents? It is curious that when you have a chance to do some gull damage, you hold back. Are you and the gull fighting or playing? Are the unguarded gull eggs at the water’s edge too nasty to eat? I would especially like to share how enjoyable it was to watch the youngsters play. We could all benefit from a bit more unbridled play.

Last year we visited a nesting area for egrets. Here are a couple adorable gangly teenagers.

Ospreys are synonymous with the Chesapeake Bay and Smith Island is no exception. We also saw a juvenile little blue heron, a good number of oyster catchers and yellow crowned night herons.

After early morning shoots, we were treated to an incredible Smith Island breakfast at Mary Ada Marshall’s home. Mary Ada is as unique as Smith Island and like so many on the island, she is an excellent cook. Jay and Mary Ada are rumored to be working on a cookbook. The world will be a happier place when that happens.

We learned how to bake a Smith Island Cake with Donna and Phil Evans one rainy afternoon. What a wonderful laughter filled interlude. Below is a photo of Donna before the final icing was added.

The origin of the 8-to-10-layer Smith Island Cake is a mystery but the women on the island will tell you they learned from their grandmothers who learned from theirs. Smith Island Cake has evolved into a cultural icon so much so that it was designated Maryland’s State Dessert in 2008. Mary Ada Marshall, a native Smith Islander, was instrumental in this process. I highly recommend listening to her 2009 interview.

While other companies claim to sell authentic Smith Island Cake, the real deal is made on the island with a dash of Smith Island magic. Kathey and Darren Jones the owners of Smith Island Bakery will ship cakes anywhere in the US as will The Cake Lady, Mary Ada Marshall. For the bakers who would like to give it a go, Mary Ada provides instructions in this video.

Mark Kitching, a local waterman, stepped us through the life of a crab. Below are a number of photos of Mark doing his thing.

We were reminded of the challenges of island life when we came across this crew fixing storm damaged electric lines.

Boating and walking around the islands reveal how vulnerable Smith Island is to the vagaries of nature. The high tides are higher causing yards and streets to flood. Property maintenance is spotty and money is tight. In some areas, nature is reclaiming its own as a result. The population is declining as the watermen’s way of life is threatened by regulation, reduced crab populations and high costs. The recent closure of the elementary school is concerning. One can only wonder what will become of this treasure.

There are glimmers of hope, however. Covid resulted in a surge of home sales bringing new residents and investment. Smith Island United is an organization formed in 2013 dedicated to the preservation of the island and its Chesapeake Bay traditions. Their efforts have resulted in significant funding to bolster Smith Island against high water, harsh weather and government buyouts. Jay Fleming’s efforts and exceptional photography bring folks to the island and raise awareness of Smith Island, its people and traditions. We can all do a little something to support Smith Islanders’ way of life. It is worth it.

While it is fortunate that funding has found its way to Smith Island, it’s people just living their lives that keep a place real. May Smith Island always be real.

Details

• To gain a deeper understanding of Smith Island, consider visiting the Smith Island United’s website which includes the Smith Island Vision Plan. An excerpt: “In many ways, Smith Island is a profound cultural success story. The legacy of the watermen’s way of life is still alive today and is the backbone of the community’s identity. The residents are part of a tightly knit community that cares for one another and maintains a high quality of life on an island where there is no law enforcement and few social services.”

• The Snapshot of Smith Island above is from the Smith Island United website which I updated with 2020 census data. It is interesting to compare the data above to the original graphic on page 1 of the Vision Plan which included 2010 census data. The population decreased from 276 to 238 in ten years and the median age increased from 58 to 70. Hopefully the next ten years will show a reversal in these trends.

• The Smith Island Cultural Center and Museum offers historical details of Smith Island.

• Many thanks to Jay Fleming for a wonderful introduction to Smith Island. For more information on his workshops and outstanding work, please visit Jay’s website.

• We stayed at Island Time Bed and Breakfast. It was excellent.

Everything changes on the Loop Rd. It is nature unleashed. Happiness goes up and stress goes down. This is the Everglades and I am behind the swamp curtain. Here I can meld with nature, sit quietly with alligators and soak in the beauty of chaos.

Passage through the swamp curtain is always accompanied by a sense of anticipation. What will nature reveal? Will I make any new friends? Will I be able to capture the essence? My last visit started with a wonderful interlude that spoke of more to come. At one of the fishing holes, I came upon Johnny and his granddaughter Crystal. Johnny filled a bucket with fish as we chatted about life, the Loop Rd and fishing. He then told the story of his birth. Johnny’s mother was an avid fisherwoman who was also due any minute. She told her midwife she was headed out to Fishing Creek. In no uncertain terms the midwife told Johnny’s mother it was a bad idea. She insisted however and the midwife decided to go along. It’s a good thing because Johnny was born that very day on the banks of Fishing Creek. He has been fishing ever since.

It was difficult to tear myself away from this bubble of goodness, but it was time to head to my Everglades home away from home, Clyde Butcher Big Cypress Gallery. Clyde Butcher is a well-known Everglades photographer whose large format black and white photography is gorgeous and inspiring. When I first started traveling to the Everglades when Earl went north, I stopped in to check out his work. Jaw dropping.

The Gallery has other offerings as well. From my first time in the Everglades, I wanted to hike in the swamp but no way was I doing that on my own. Was very happy to learn they offer swamp walks on the 14 acre property plus two accommodations, the cottage and the bungalow. The people are wonderful, the swamp walks fun, and it makes a great home base.

Big Mama and her babies live in the pond next to the cottage and that is always my first stop. I love baby alligators. Interestingly when hatchlings are about 2 years old mothers chase them away as they are now a threat to the next batch of eggs. Sadly no Big Mama and no babies. I figured the older babies had moved on.

The next day I was walking along the edge and there was a splash. I stopped dead in my tracks. Deep settling breaths. Could it be? A baby alligator crawled back up the slope at my feet. I reckon that was permission so down on my belly I went. Anytime a creature hangs out with me for an extended shoot, they enter the new friend category and I name them. Please meet Abner. Note my preference would have been to hold the camera a bit lower however that pesky leaf was in the way. Abner allowed me to try every angle imaginable but the side on shot is my favorite.

Later at almost the same spot, I met the handsome Hamilton, a curious Great Blue Heron who literally posed for the camera as I sat close by. The light was kind to both of us as a sunray broke through the swamp canopy and perfectly spotlighted Hamilton. This creates the ideal scenario for in camera lowkey portraits that need very little adjustment in post.

I had arranged for a sunrise pole boat ride with Everglades Adventure Tours. This is a quiet pleasant way to glide though the swamp. There was only one problem, it was uncommonly cold at 48 degrees. Even though we had on every layer possible, we were freezing. The upside is the elusive smoke on the water created on a chilly morning. In this shot, a sun ray beautifully lit a strip of steam.

Teenage alligators are wonderful due to their giant eyes. While I really like this shot, it would be even more dramatic if I had been comfortable holding the camera at water level. It will happen next time.

While we did not see a ton of birds, the way the light hit the red eye of this night heron made the trip worth every cold minute.

I am always in search of shots that capture the patterns and magic in swamp chaos.

While there is much chaos in the swamp, I love noticing the small touches of beauty the swamp delivers.

Another morning I visited Marsh Trail in search of the white pelicans. Some were in residence but sadly they were in the far reaches of the lake and had to crop this far too much.

Meanwhile I practiced birds in flight. I dealt with this seriously underexposed but cool white pelican shot by blowing out the sky for a high key look.

While my intent was to practice technique rather than create wall worthy photos, I do like the one above.

I always spend plenty of time on the Loop Rd. At one spot, another photographer pointed out “the” shot, a beautiful preening great white egret. While he was shooting, I had a wander and noticed this green heron perched in classic swamp. For me, this was not only “the” shot of this spot but perhaps of the trip. I can’t decide which I like best the environmental shot that tells a bigger story of the swamp or the cropped in portrait framed by a literal swamp curtain. What do you think?

One can usually find alligators on the Loop Rd, even when its freezing. I like how this alligator adorned itself in the vegetation. The shot below is about alligator reflections and the possibilities if green gets on your nerves.

There are usually plenty of birds as well on the Loop Rd. This tricolored heron hung around just long enough for a portrait.

Sweet Water is an area on the Loop Rd that has delivered many great moments but has been oddly devoid of wildlife recently. I figured I would settle in for a good while over lunch to see what might develop. Just as I sat down a pickup truck parked on the bridge (no one does that), music blaring. They started unloading a grill. Things got louder. This was not a Johnny and Crystal moment, they made no attempt to blend with the environment and I wondered if I had found the reason things had changed for the worse at Sweet Water.

In addition several adult alligators had to be put down recently because people fed them. Alligators view humans as food if people are stupid enough to do this and they could potentially attack the next human they see. Hopefully folks will remember that we are guests behind the swamp curtain and behave accordingly.

Meanwhile, I left the pickup in my rearview mirror to find one of the many excellent spots for a relaxing lunch, enjoy the light on the cypress and perhaps some wildlife. This great white egret stared intently down her beak. Will we see you again she said? Most definitely Mrs. Egret. Thank you so much for welcoming me in your home.

Reading the directions is torture. It’s the last resort well after head banging and excessive bad language. This is a problem when learning a complicated craft such as photography where the path forward is often blocked with indecipherable manuals.

Imagine my delight upon discovering a workshop on flash photography on a cool island with an excellent teacher. Is it possible to learn flash basics and avoid a descent into manual and youtube hell? Yes.

After an extensive Covid delay, Jared Lloyd’s workshop in Bocas del Toro, Panama was on. Let the buying begin. We needed gear – flash, flash bracket, flash cord, flash extender, flash box and a way to connect the bracket to the camera or lens. But the real panic came over how to safely check all the gear into the belly of the beast, have a backpack for short hikes while respecting a carry-on weight restriction of 8lb. Jared provided the simple solution, put the backpack loaded with gear into a pelican case. Genius. Pelican’s stock got a nice bump.

We arrived in Panama City and enjoyed a classroom day before the trek to Bocas del Toro. After a prop plane ride to Isla Colon, the big pelican cases were loaded first into vehicles, driven to a pier, then into boats. At long last, we made it to our island and Tranquilo Bay Eco Adventure Lodge, home for the next 5 nights. My kind of place.

We immediately got down to business learning flash and the necessary camera settings to achieve various results. It was obvious incorporating flash into wildlife photography would be transformational. There were six students, two excellent teachers, Jared Lloyd and Annalise Kaylor plus our wonderful naturalist Stacey Hollis.

We experimented with frog and snake setups that yielded beautiful photos for all. Bocas del Toro has a lot to offer but many photographers come for the frogs. We discovered that frogs are suffering from their own pandemic caused by the chytrid fungus. Frog populations in several countries have been decimated. Frogs have suffered in Bocas del Toro but to a lesser degree that other areas leading some to believe proximity to the sea and salt water provide protection against this scourge.

While I wish we had these frogs in our backyard, I am glad we don’t have army ants. There was a literal brigade crossing the path to our cabins. To avoid the very unpleasant army ant bite, we ran up and down the path to minimize the opportunity for a handy meal. Army ants love feet and their yummy smells. Then I had a great idea. How about getting a photograph for this article? With extreme caution, I head up the path and see hundreds of them marching in columns, presumably a safe distance ahead. Bad assumption. The little buggers found me before I could find the shutter release and my feet and legs were covered instantly. No time for picture taking while madly swatting ants at a dead run to the hose bib. My feet burned for an hour.

While I did not record the army ants for posterity, here is a shot of leaf cutter ants, the farmers of the ant world who form large, complex societies. They are truly mesmerizing and if interested in the details, here is a quick article to satisfy your curiosity.

Of the wildlife we encountered, the adorable three toed sloth was my favorite, the real slowskys. In addition to making anyone who sees them happy, sloths offer disconnected humans an important lesson on the symbiotic relationship between earth’s creatures. Note the algae on Mrs. Sloth. “The fur of a sloth doubles as a personal, edible garden ecosystem that house a collection of diverse microorganisms, many of which are found nowhere else. A prominent member of this mobile ecosystem is the pyralid moth (Cryptoses species) whose entire life-cycle is dependent on the sloth.”

The interesting article quoted above theorizes that the three toed sloth comes to the ground for a weekly constitutional in which the moths lay their eggs and grab some nutrient rich waste to feed the algae. The algae in turn feeds and camouflages the sloth. After contemplating this article, I wonder if we gave Mrs. Sloth a case of stage fright when we were lying next to her in the mud, clicking away. Instead of digging a hole to do her business, she did a slow flow across the ground and climbed another tree. Did Mrs. Sloth wait another week? Were the moths able to lay their eggs? Did the algae get the needed nutrients to flourish? Something to think about in the future.

While shooting a hummingbird nest, another sloth came into view and all thoughts of the hummingbird vanished. At one point the sloth was directly above us. Imagine a camera, dangling flash equipment and heavy zoom lens smashed against my face to get this shot. It is important to note this would have been an ideal opportunity to use fill flash with flash extender to reduce ISO. Sadly operator error got in the way of that. Next time.

And let’s not forget the monkeys.

We also made a couple of trips to Bird Island, an hour boat ride from Tranquilo Bay. As the name suggests Bird Island is a rookery populated by thousands of birds including the Red-Billed Tropic, Brown Booby and Magnificent Frigatebird. This prehistoric place offered an excellent opportunity to practice tracking, manage exposure settings, see beautiful birds all while in two foot swells. The morning after our first trip to Bird Island, Jared must have seen the concentration on my face and asked if I was alright. I replied I was great and was mentally reviewing the questions I would torture him and Annalise with over breakfast. Bird Island revealed some notable gaps in my learning. Over yet another delicious breakfast, they provided the education I needed on exposure.

On our second trip to Bird Island, Jared directed our attention to the birds flying over the crashing waves. The sun was behind us, the waves bright white, the brown boobies dark, the fast red-billed tropics white, the sky and sea blue, the seas rough, the boat small. Difficult. Jared yelled out an exposure compensation suggestion. Didn’t work for the Sony. This incredibly beautiful scene was playing out in front of us, possibly never to be seen again, and I was screwing it up. JARED! HELP! Settle down, think about what you have learned, you know what to do. Manual ISO.

With photography there is always more to learn. On our second day at Bird Island, photos would have been far better utilizing custom white balance to avoid the clipped blue bomb. Jared mentioned this but I did not delve in. Correcting white balance and clipped blues in post is not always easy and life is far simpler to get it right in camera. Went with a bleached look for the brown booby scene above and moody blue for the red-billed tropic below. A deep dive into white balance and its impact on the histogram is in my future.

Normally a bird against a clear sky isn’t that exciting. However, I do like this front on shot of the brown booby.

On our last morning, we learned another interesting flash technique that produces a crisp white background. We practiced with the parakeet heliconia. For details on how to achieve this look, check out Jared’s video.

We all loved this workshop. The people were great both in our group and at Tranquilo Bay. We learned heaps, had wonderful photo opportunities, had excellent food and enjoyable conversation. This was my first organized photo workshop and while I prefer solo photography excursions, I will sign up for another. Thank you Jared, Annalise and Stacy for making us all better photographers and teaching us the mysteries of nature. You are all very good at what you do.

DETAILS

• While there was much to learn in this workshop, one of the primary takeaways was to have the histogram visible in the viewfinder at all times and actually look at it. In some circumstances such as a small bright white object in a dark background, the tiny histogram on my camera can be hard to read. Therefore I keep “zebras” activated which indicate areas of over or underexposure. Exposure compensation can then be adjusted accordingly. For those using Sony, I highly recommend Mark Galer tutorials on this and a range of subjects.

• The learning continued as I edited photos. It is very exciting to shoot beautiful or interesting scenes. One can be so captivated that all the technical details go out the window. For example on our second trip to Bird Island, I neglected to consistently monitor the histogram and did not adjust exposure as we were loosing the light. Consequently the later photos are underexposed which made the blue bombs even harder to fix.

• I came across Jared Lloyd via his well written photography articles that somehow hide the fact that I am “reading the directions”. It was clear that in addition to being an accomplished wildlife photographer, Jared could teach. His Journal of Wildlife Photography is first-rate. Feel free to visit

https://jaredlloydphoto.com

• for details on this and upcoming workshops.

• As one of my mentors beat into my head, taking the photo is only 50% if it. Processing represents the rest and can propel an ordinary photo into something truly beautiful. While I have a long way to go, I benefited greatly from the Ultimate Wildlife Photography Course , also available at the site above or

https://journalofwildlifephotography.com

• .

• For a nature escape, I highly recommend Tranquilo Bay Eco Adventure Lodge. For the birders of the world, you are guaranteed to add many lifers. The wildlife is wonderful and hanging with sloths is fun.

https://www.tranquilobay.com

I am not afraid of spiders per se. It’s the spider bites that I find so disturbing. Bruises, bumps, itching, the specter of death. Close encounters therefore result in rather dramatic reactions. Last week I was on a predawn search for owls at Pa-Hay-Okee in Everglades National Park when I came eyeball to eyeball with a giant spider. My hat and tripod went flying as I frantically brushed off webbing and spiders making an incredible racket in this deserted, wonderfully serene place. I proceeded down the path brandishing my tripod like Joan of Arc with her sword. Surprise surprise no owls.

There was an abundance of spiders however, more than I have ever seen in one place here or anywhere. Not civilized suburban spiders with one spider to a web, these are multilevel spider condos with big groups hanging together. The prairie is an endless sea of spider webs. It is truly remarkable.

From there I visited my favorite haunts. The birds in ENP are wondering what this new creature is that pops out of a big gray box so close to their perch. Was lucky to catch an egret in front of a rainbow and many bird portraits. My assignment next time is birds in flight, something quite difficult for a newish bird photographer in this tree and stick filled environment.

I photograph this bush every visit to Mahogany Hammock. It is best when the water is high and shooting into the sun. Here is my latest take.

The pink grass between Anhinga Trail and Pine Lake was finally back. This is best in afternoon sun which lights the grass beautifully.

At sunset I experimented with sunset shots and returned to Mahogany Hammock in search of owls. No luck.

The next day I was up and out well before dawn on a coffee fueled mission to find owls. With my tripod as protector, I entered the forest and was engulfed in a cloud of mosquitos demanding a blood donation. News flash, mosquitos bite through Patagonia long sleeve sun shirts. It wasn’t long before I went back to the car for a bug jacket and more spray. As I reapproached the path I heard an owl hoot. Excellent. I stopped for a quiet moment to let the world start back up around me. When I looked up, the owl was there.

We hung together for about 10 minutes. After the owl flew away, I realized that image stabilization was on panning. Not good. Also in the excitement I had forgotten my calming mantra when shooting to reduce movement. Especially bad if image stabilization is off after lots of caffeine while being driven to distraction by mosquitos. Was disappointed but decided to do a checklist to avoid that sort of mistake, stay another night and try again the next morning. Meanwhile when I downloaded the photos I was happy to see that other than the impacts of photography before sunrise, many were salvageable. Chalk this up as a valuable lesson.

Later in the afternoon, I went to one of my favorite spots, Pine Glade Lake. It is a very special place and by far the best sunset location in the park. The road was flooded but it was no problem for the big gray box. Being a couple hours early, figured I had time for a hike but nature had scheduled a wonderful opening act featuring clouds, rain and sun. Then the main show began.

The next morning, I was ready. Equipment checked and packed. Battery full, cards empty, settings checked, no caffeine. Cruising down the empty predawn road with music cranked, I reviewed my shot plan. Opened the windows, turned the a/c off and uncovered the lens so it would become acclimated. Condensation is a very big concern on mornings like this. I was ready and sensed a good day was on the way.

Before opening the car door, I suited up in mosquito gear. Pulled the jacket hood up and layered that with the hat. I wore socks doused in repellent. Tripod in front, I entered. Once again I stopped for a quiet meditation letting the ripples from my presence fade. Then BAM. Something hit my head hard, blunt force trauma hard. I turned to my left and saw the owl mere feet away. Could it be? As I collected myself I momentarily turned my head and BAM again. With another yelp, I see Bertha land just to my right. For real Bertha? That hurt. Then I see her bunch up, preparing to launch but I am ready. It’s alpha chic against alpha chic, literal vs figurative talons. She comes at me and I duck putting my camera up. Bertha passes over and lands about ten feet away. Next time when I have proper head gear you can rest assured that I will be hammering the shutter release like a woman possessed as Bertha comes my way.

Bertha is now on my left, her partner Digger lands in the tree to the right. I back up to form the apex of the triangle and start shooting. No way I was letting either of them behind me. Then a crow lands directly to my right raising holy hell. I keep shooting.

This tableau continues, the owls staring, the crow crowing, me shooting, my head in an owl swivel. The crow flew away, then Digger. That left me and Bertha in a staring contest. What followed was an unbelievable 30 minute photo shoot. Mind you, shot plans, steadying mantras and any proper strategy fly out the window after an owl tries to pick up your head. My hands were shaking like crazy and heart beating too fast to think I was ever going to relax into the shots. Hey but the image stabilization was set properly.

I was not properly prepared for predawn flight shots especially since I flinched every time she took off. Love the photos I did take but they are too blurry to be fixed. Equally important to a fast low light flight strategy is the ability to anticipate impending motion. After watching Bertha hop from tree to tree and reviewing the photos, I should be able to predict when she will take off and adjust accordingly in advance. With any luck my adrenaline will not be off the charts. My new helmet should help with that.

Why did she attack? While I rarely see anyone else there at dawn, no doubt Bertha and Digger know that human heads are inedible. Was her message “hey you just walked by me dummy”? Or perhaps “you arrived a wee bit too early this morning, come back later”. Sometimes the simplest answer is the most likely…she wanted my sexy mosquito hat. I asked the ranger and she was unsure especially since it’s too early for nesting season.

When she flew away, I snapped a sunrise shot and then turned my attention to the spider show which was once again incredible.

As I wandered back, I offered a prayer of thanks for the magnificence of our natural world with special thanks to the mosquitos who encouraged me to wear two hats.

DETAILS

• There are a number of articles online about Barred and Great Horned Owls dive bombing people. Here is one.

• The entrance to ENP is near Florida City. It is a wonderful magical place. If you are considering a visit feel free to reach out for additional details. There is a Holiday Inn Express which is a bit run down but clean and a new Fairfield Inn by Marriott next door. https://www.nps.gov/ever/index.htm

• My first visit to ENP was two years ago, I have returned several times since then and have always left with at least one wall worthy photo. Bertha, although we had not been formally introduced yet, is already on the wall. She will be again. I discovered during the initial visit that spending a few days dedicated to photography improved my skills. It is also incredibly rewarding to be immersed in nature. As my love of photography and the everglades has grown I visit the western everglades and Big Cypress National Park or ENP several times a year.

• Should anyone like to know settings or processing techniques for the photos included in this article, I am more than happy to share. I am very much still in learning mode however.

• Photography led me to precision pistol and precision pistol will make me a better photographer. So many similarities in one’s approach. For more information on that journey please feel free to visit the “Guns”section.